The nation’s largest American Indian restaurant business — boasting two brick-and-mortar locations plus a food truck in Colorado — is hosting DENVER E.A.T.S.S. (Epicurean Award to Support Scholars), the American Indian College Fund’s popular top chef showcase.
The first-ever event of its kind will raise money for Native American students. All proceeds from ticket sales (at $55 each) will go toward scholarships awarded by the American Indian College Fund.
“I want to make sure our food and people have a story. Events like this create a lot of engagement, friendships and crosses cultural thresholds which is really important,” said Ben Jacobs, the Osage co-owner of Tocabe.
At DENVER E.A.T.S.S. on September 17, five chefs will prepare dishes using three Native ingredients: Cholla buds, gooseberries and Ute Mountain blue corn.
Other featured chefs include Will Harris of Linger, Zachary Patz of Il Posto, Paul Warthen of Potager Restaurant and Wine Bar, and Claire Westcott of Safta. Meanwhile, guests can watch Indigenous cooking demonstrations performed by Native culinary students attending Lac Courte Oreilles Ojibwa Community College and Navajo Technical Institute — two Tribal colleges serving Native communities supported by the College Fund and the event.
The event’s ingredient-driven challenge fits Tocabe’s unique approach to food. Tocabe’s philosophy — “Native first and local second” — serves as the backbone of the restaurant concept. Tocabe sources indigenous ingredients consistently from at least five Native producers: wild rice and pure maple syrup from Red Lake Nation Foods as well as Spirit Lake Native Products; olive oil and elderberry balsamic vinegar from Séka Hills, a Yocha Dehe Wintun Nation brand; wheat berries and tepary beans from Ramona Farms; and Indian corn and blue corn from Bow & Arrow.
While Jacobs can often be found in the kitchen, he doesn’t consider himself a chef, and Tocabe actually doesn’t boast an executive chef. “It’s not designed that way. There is no one who is barking orders. It’s about development through community,” Jacobs told Native Business.
Central to the community-led approach to business, every Tocabe team member tastes each new food item (unless, of course, a dietary restriction or preference prevents them from engaging). “We always say that we are a kitchen by committee. Some of the best dishes that we’ve had have been dishes that the group has provided input on,” Jacobs said. For instance, one of Tocabe’s most popular sides is wild rice — co-created by four employees. “They suggested de-glazing the pan with our bison stock, and all of a sudden, we have this amazing dish that people love,” Jacobs said.
Jacobs and his business partner Matt Chandra launched their fast-casual restaurant more than 10 years ago, when they were just 25 years old. Fortunately the partners, who studied history (Jacobs) and digital media (Chandra) at The University of Denver, had industry experience to lean on. Jacobs parents opened Grayhorse: An American Indian Eatery in downtown Denver in 1989. Growing up, Jacobs bussed tables, washed dishes, served customers, and learned the ins and outs of managing a restaurant.
Now Jacobs and Chandra are in growth mode, looking to expand beyond Colorado’s borders. Wherever they go, Tocabe will embrace a boutique-hotel approach to the restaurant industry. Each Tocabe eatery is connected yet unique, reflecting that region’s Indigenous foods and local Native arts, Jacobs emphasized.
Tickets for DENVER E.A.T.S.S., taking place September 17 from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. at Mile High Station (2027 West Colfax Avenue), can be purchased on the College Fund’s website for $55 each.
